Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Haole is a native Hawaiian term for a white person. Finnegan recalls being regarded as an Haole when he moved to Hawaii.

When surfers “make a wave,” they ride it in its entirety without falling off their boards. Finnegan uses this term many times throughout his work as he remembers riding different waves.

A pipeline is a hollow, thick wave that curves over surfers as they ride it. Pipelines are notoriously dangerous and difficult waves, which only experienced surfers attempt.